Bhalu Gaad Waterfall- Engulfed by the forest of Mukteshwar, Uttarakhand

A place where at every step you take produces a crunching sound of dry reddish-yellow leaves. A trail that requires you to climb and jump across the big boulders. A walk along side a stream so clear that its pebble bed coloured in multiple shades of greenish-yellow shined brightly under the clear sky. This sounds like but is not a scene picked up from a story tale. There actually exists a place that’s in complete seclusion nesting amidst flora and fauna, providing a relaxing sensation and can bring even Einstein’s mind to the state of peace. So would you want to get on this journey with me and know about how to reach Bhalu Gaad Waterfall and when is the best time to visit.

Wondering why the name Bhalu Gaad? Now talking in terms of kumaoni language i.e their local language, ‘Bhalu’ means Bear and ‘Gaad’ means streams of water. Since you walk along a stream and the area was once home to Bears its named ‘Bhalu Gaad’.

Trail to bhalu gaad waterfall starts likes this

The discovery of Bhalu Gaad Waterfall

Well, yes… for me it was kind of discovery in itself. I couldn’t and for that matter no one in my group could have imagined that their exits a trail that can be titled as a journey to the another world. There was a complete flip in the aura of the environment. Discovery of the hidden gems is one of the benefits of travelling with the locals or with a person who knows every nook of the place in and around. And we were lucky we had the team of Nainital Cottages to show us hidden gems of Mukteshwar in & around.

First step on the trail

The car stopped and there seemed no possibility of a trail to exist.

The moment we got down of our cars, we were like What! Are you kidding.. There can’t be a trail here and that too leading to a waterfall.

To my amazement, there were in-fact two trails. Believe me or not but it’s not easy to make out where the path would lead to as there exists no sign boards. This is good to some extent as it would keep the place less touristy.

And, then we stepped further into the forest…

Here the trail starts from

An easy hike to Bhalu Gaad Waterfall

Whenever there is a hike involved in any itinerary, then the very first concerns that flow across our minds is How Difficult Is It? Is it a good idea to take along kids? And much more…

Just to answer all your worries in one line.. The trail to Bhalu Gaad waterfall is pretty easy and a very casual hike.

But, not to forget there will be stream crossings, rock climbing like activities involved be prepared for it. And just like for any other hikes, be prepared for the unforeseen situations. Talking about the steepness of the trail, it is very much flat and you would be walking in the valley along the stream.

Words won’t do justice to it so without wasting any more words and your precious time in describing its mesmerizing beauty let me show you how you can reach there…And, whatever time you saved on reading can be put to use in packing your bags.

Reaching Bhalu Gaad Waterfall

Stream Crossing

 

The most convenient way to reach here is by road. Mukteshwar is well-connected to cities like Delhi, Dehradun at about 6-8hrs of drive. Regular buses and trains ply to Haldwani which is 2.5hrs and you could easily hire a cab from here.

 

Canteen on the way

 

To reach Bhalu Gaad you will have to drive to Dhari village which is at 7km from Mukteshwar towards Haldwani. This is the point where the trek starts from and it takes around 45 min. to reach the fall.

 

 

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Words of wisdom from my experience and research

• There could be an entry fee of 10rs during peak season.

  

  Bhalu Gaad Waterfall, Mukteshwar, Uttarakhand

• I visited the fall in the month on November when there were no tourists and hence no stalls but during summers it is frequented by the locals. So, you may or may not find tea stalls near and on the way to the fall depending upon the time you make a visit. Also, you may find life jackets available on rent.
• The monsoon period though increases the beauty but along with it comes factors like slippery rocks, increased flows and more. It is advisable to be prepared for the same. But, since the water gets muddy during monsoons, that crystal clear water with glittering pebble bed won’t be visible.
• Based on a recent incident I would suggest to avoid swimming if you are an amateur specially in rainy days when the flow is high. Also, if you chose to swim then avoid getting just below the fall. As fascinating as it sounds it’s equally risky as with heavy flow comes the boulders that could hit your head any moment… Enjoy but responsibly.
• I am not sure if proper changing rooms are available so its suggested to wear dry pants and t-shirts that dry off quickly.
• Give yourself an easy 3 hours to trek and completely enjoy the nature without any hustle.
• PARKING- now since there is no designated parking from where the trek starts so please be sure to park your cars on the roadside but without obstructing the way.
• At last, Bhalu Gaad Waterfall WELCOMES you with open arms but not your GARBAGE. So, be responsible to bring it all back and dispose properly. I am sure you would not accept others to make your house a dump yard so you shouldn’t do that too.

 

The hanging pillar of Lepakshi Temple- A day trip from Bangalore

It was the month of December in the year 2016 when I stepped on the grounds of Bangalore. This was my first time traveling solo in Bangalore and was pretty much excited. The excitement was so much that I re-scheduled my flight and transformed a two-day work trip into 4 days exploration. After spending a day in Bangalore witnessing the majestic Bangalore Palace, St. Basilica Church, and Iskcon Temple, I was left with a day and a half before my flying back home. Early in the morning I texted my local friend and she suggested me two spots Nandi Hills and The Hanging Pillar of Lepakshi Temple. A little research on Google I found that both the spots make for a perfect day trip from Bangalore.

All set for the Hanging Pillar of Lepakshi Temple

So here I was at the Majestic Bus Stop…It was around 9:30 in the morning and after striking against two-three bus drivers asking for the bus to Lepakshi, I finally hopped on the right one. Soon we left the platform at 10:00…Wait did I said ‘We’ but I was traveling solo right!

No more solo…I found a company while searching for the right bus. There was this guy Shubham who was also traveling solo to witness the serenity on Nandi Hills. Since there was no bus to Nandi Hill any time sooner I asked him to join me to Lepakshi and then further to Nandi Hill in the eve…Well said is the thought that  ‘One is solo only until he/she steps out’. Now I had a stranger friend to have a blast with and I was no more solo to travel around Bangalore.

The journey from Bangalore to Lepakshi Temple

As I said the clock was ticking 10:00 as our rickety bus throttled the engine. For quite a while I was tracking our journey on Google maps as to get an approximate time we would be reaching Lepakshi. But who knew that it would take 4 hours to cover that 120 km that too on metaled roads.  Instead of taking the straight route, the bus went round and round to take a halt at small villages falling on the way. When the sun shined bright, finally at 1:30 in the noon we were dropped at Kodikonda check-post.

Another 30 minutes of journey followed from this point…this time our ride was an auto rickshaw. And guess what? I was not only accompanied by Shubham but also a medium size briefcase to look after.

And then we reached Lepakshi Temple

Entrance to Lepakshi Village

A narrow street lined by small shops led us to the temple. Witnessing the shops selling Prasad and other offering that are made to the god, we firmly thought not to spend more than an hour here.

But…

The enigma of the temple, its intricately crafted pillars and a mysterious story that I had only heard in the news so far…all this made the time flew so fast. Even though we left as per schedule to reach Nandi Hills before sunset, we missed it. My biggest mistake was to rely on public transport however I didn’t let it ruin the essence of my first ever Rambling Solo in Bangalore. Before I recite the mysterious lore behind the hanging pillar of lepakshi temple, let’s peek into to the history and architecture of Lepakshi Temple.

History of Lepakshi also called Veerabhadara Temple

The year 1530 saw the construction of Veerabhadara Temple and since then stands majestically on the land or rather say a huge rock in a small village of Anantpur. The temple was built by the two brothers cum governors of Vijayanagar Empire during the reign of King Achutaraya, at Penukonda namely Virupanna Nayaka and Viranna. Skanda Purana, one of the eighteen Hindu religious texts with 81,000 versus, mentions that this Veerabhadara temple is one of the divyakshetras, making it an important pilgrimage site of Lord Shiva. It’s intricately done architecture is as captivating as the history of Lepakshi Temple.

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Architecture of Lepakshi also called Veerabhadara Temple

Every nook of the temple reflects the architectural features from the 16^th century. The temple built-in Vijayanagara style has almost every exposed surface of it profuse with carvings and paintings adoring its beauty. Each of its eye-catching carvings recites a story taking you down the history line. Still well-preserved are the bright and colorful fresco paintings with scenes of Rama and Krishna from the epic stories of the Ramayana, the Mahabharata and the Puranas. Not for a second will that vow expression evaded from our face.

As we passed through one and only entry to temple, the board outside read ‘Archaeological Site of India’. Centering the four walled arena, on left of the sanctum is massive three coiled seven hooded Naga canopying black granite Shivalinga. Perpendicular to the linga is an idol of Lord Ganesha resting against the wall.

By now you must be wondering that why I am beating around the bush and not coming on the topic…

There must be questions popping up in your mind…questions like What is so special about the hanging pillar of Lepakshi? OR What is so mysterious about the hanging pillar? OR Are you wondering what mythology has to say about this mysterious temple?

Mystery and Mythology behind the hanging pillar of Lepakshi Temple

In the outer portion of the sanctum also called the dance hall, of the many supporting pillars, one on the left is the hanging pillar. Now when I say hanging you must be imagining it like supported only from the top…well you are almost right with your thoughts but wrong.

The much hyped hanging pillar of Lepakshi Temple is not completely in air but a nook of its corner touches the ground and that’s how it supports the whole structure. But then why has it captivated mind and eyes of so many around the world.

Going back in time preceding the year 1910, it is said that the pillar was actually as called “a hanging pillar”. It was only until 1910, when a puzzled mind of a British engineer Hamilton tried to rectify this architectural aberration. It’s the result of his curiosity to defy this science defying phenomenon that today a corner of the pillar is seen to touch the ground.

But at what cost?

As a result to his trials, there was a distortion in roof alignment causing the pillars to lean on and the roof paintings distorted. In order to keep the temple intact any further research was aborted and it was concluded that any minor change in it can be catastrophic for the temple as the pillar acts as ballast.

Frankly speaking, I was a lot excited to see this but it didn’t turned up to my expectations and I found architecture of the temple and the murals far catchier to the eye. In fact for the first time I didn’t even noticed the pillar and only when we were about to leave the arena it ticked me and I inquired as to where it was. Now that you have read this post, you know where the pillar exactly is and otherwise if you take a guide he will demonstrate it in detail using a cloth and paper as props.

That’s all about the mystery and now coming to the mythological significance of Lepakshi Temple.

Of the two stories the first one revolves around the word Le-Pakshi. Mentioned in the epic Ramayana is a story that when Ravana abducted Sita and Jatayu tried to rescue her but failed. As a result Jatayu fell on the rocks here and lost his wings. Wait ! Did I mentioned the existence of footprints of Lord Rama in the temple? It was Rama who commanded the bird Jatayu ‘Le-Pakshi’, a Tamil word meaning rise bird. Hence named Lepakshi Temple.

Another story derives from the word Lape-akshi. Blind since birth, Veerupanna’s son got his eyesight back while playing around the Shivalinga in the temple. Listening to this the king thought Veerupanna is spending the royal fortune to cure his son and gave order to take away his eyesight and blind him. Before the king’s troop could do anything Virupanna voluntarily plucked his eyes and threw them in the Kalyana Mantapa inside the temple. This gave the temple its name Lape-akshi meaning village of the blinded eye. The existence of blood stains can still be sighted on the wall under which the eyes were thrown claims the British Scientist.

Got pretty long right but that’s all I had to say about mystery and mythology behind the hanging pillar of lepakshi temple. Let me know in the comments if you spot those blood stains or the big foot imprint on the rock because I couldn’t spot them.

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Baijnath Temple in Baijnath, Himachal Pradesh

India is a home to a large number of temples and every day new ones are popping out of the Mother Earth. Each temple has a mystery attached to their timeline. Of the many, only a few ought to have real stories revolving around them and the rest merely exists for money making. It feels pity to see how priests/pandits forcefully get the money out of pilgrims pocket. Amongst such greedy trust that has made it a business there still exist the ones where God is not on sale and treats everyone the same. One such temple is Baijnath Temple in the Kangra district of Himachal Pradesh, India. 

The month of January was at its coda when I visited this little quaint hill station of Palampur. Baijnath Temple being one of the top places to visit around Palampur, made to the top of our itinerary. It was my second day at Palampur, the sun was shining bright and a cool breeze was caressing the body. Soon after a light breakfast, we headed out towards the Baijnath Temple. 

Baijnath Temple on the map

Adorned by the snow-clad, lush green Dhauladhar range of the Himalayas is the temple of Baijnath at 17 km from Palampur. Perched at an altitude of around 1314 meters, Baijnath Temple lies on the  NH 154 Mandi – Pathankot highway in the Kangra district of Himachal Pradesh.

The history

Resting in the serenity of Kangra district is a 13th-century old Baijnath Temple devoted to Lord Shiva. It is believed that the shivalinga here is dedicated to the Vaidyanath form of Shiva who is also titled as Lord of physicians. Some texts even state that this is one of the 12 jyotirlingas that Lord Shiva established as a challenge against Lord Vishnu and Lord Brahma. When Ravana, through his worship succeeded in pleasing Lord Shiva for attaining invincibility and immortality, he asked Lord Shiva to accompany him to Sri Lanka. Responding to this Lord Shiva transformed himself into a Shivling which Ravan could establish in his Lanka. But, when Ravana reached Baijnath, Lord Ganesh cleverly took it and kept it on the ground making it firmly established there…And that’s what is now seen inside the sanctum of Baijnath Temple.

The Architecture

The temple showcases one of the most prominent early medieval styles of architecture known as Nagra style. Built on a raised platform, the sanctum is enclosed by high walls carved with images of various gods and goddesses. Moving up the platform through one of its two entries on the North & South of the sanctum is a porch. Besides the several small sanctums resting on the porch is an idol of Nandi Bull facing the entry to the main sanctum. The five projections surmounted by a curvilinear Shikhara forms the main sanctum inside which enshrined is the Shivalinga. Taking a step further from the porch I walked through a vestibule towards the shivalinga. In the vestibule lied a large square Mandapa and a balcony on the North & South face of the temple kept a cool breeze circulating within the sanctum. Post receiving endowments from Lord Shiva, it was time to relish picturesque views from the backyard of the Baijnath Temple.

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The Landscape

Adorning the backdrop of the Baijnath Temple is the Dhauladhar range of Himalayas. A river gushing through foothill of the Dhauladhars graces the beauty of the valley and creates an enchanting environment in and around the temple. Just next to the temple is a green sprawling garden where we spent about an hour for some sun basking. 

Other nearby attractions

It may seem to be a small town but there are plenty of things to do in Palampur. Apart from Baijnath Temple, some other prominent ones amongst locals are Mukut Nath temple at Sansal (6 km)and Awahi Nag temple (1.5 km) and the Mahankal Temple (5 km) at Mahankal on Chobin Road. 

Besides this close to Palampur is a home to the internationally renowned Paragliding site at Bir where you swiftly glides down witnessing spectacular views. Another must have experience awaits you at the Andretta Pottery Studio and Museum where you can take a mini session or a full course on pottery.

Any trip to Palampur would be incomplete without a tea tasting session and for this, there are many tea estates offering the same. I went for a tour with Himalayan Brew Tea Factory and it was a really nice, refreshing session.

Reaching Baijnath Temple

Being well connected via rail, road and air modes of transport makes Baijnath Temple a perfect weekend destination to escape the heat of cities like Delhi, Chandigarh, Dehradun. The nearest airport is the Gaggal Airport at 43 km and regular flights ply to and from Delhi. 

Places to stay 

Though there are plenty of options at disposal from homestays to luxury resorts to suit everyone’s pocket, I would suggest going with a homestay for the best experience. During my three day trip, I stayed with Jyoti Niwas Homestay and loved every bit of it from food to rooms to courtesy. 

Best time to visit

Palampur sees hot summers and pleasantly chilly winters. This makes the months of October to February the best time to visit Baijnath Temple and other nearby attractions.

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